Dress Shirt 101 Archives – Vardama

Thread count

Higher thread count means a smoother silkier and more luxurious fabric, if everything else is the same (weave, ply, mill, and type of cotton). You would be excused for thinking that 100s = 100 threads per inch, but that’s incorrect (and a common misconception in the industry). Rather, these numbers refer to the yarn size. 120s means there are 120 hanks (1 hank = 840 yards) of yarn in one pound.

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The shaped piece of fabric that runs from the neck to the shoulders and stretches across the top back of a shirt. It conforms to the shoulder gradient and uses it like a thick hanger, draping the front and back of the shirt over the body, creating an elegant, flowing shape to the garment. SINGLE … Continued Read more …


Band of fabric that finishes the bottom of the sleeves. Like collars, cuffs come in an array of styles, but the three to know are below.

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The panel of fabric folded to the outside (sometimes a separate piece attached) that runs down the middle of the shirt where the buttons are sewn. Range in size is from 1“ wide to 2“ wide with 1.5“ being most common. Usually made with very light interlining.

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The fold of fabric that makes up the neckline of the shirt. As a rule of thumb, the choice of collar should balance out the shape of the customer’s face. All our collars are seamless which means there is no visible stitching on the collars, with the exception of Vaux.

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Slim fit

EU 38 40 42 44
Neck 14.5 – 15 15.5 – 16 16.5 – 17 17 – 17.5
Chest 38 – 40 40 – 42 42 – 44 44 – 46
Sleeve 32 – 33 33 – 34 34 – 35 35 – 36

Our narrowest fit. Compared to our tailored fit, our slim fit is 2 inches narrower around the chest and 3 inches narrower around the waist, accentuating features of a slim silhouette.

A full length center box pleat in the back runs down the length of the shirt to maximize mobility.

Designed for a slim silhouette with a narrow chest and tapered waist. A box pleat in the back, runs the length of the shirt ensuring better functionality.



EU 38 40 42 44 46
Neck 14.5 – 15 15.5 – 16 16.5 – 17 17 – 17.5 18 – 18.5
Chest 40 – 42 42 – 44 44 – 46 46 – 48 48-50
Sleeve 32 – 33.5 33 – 34 34 – 35 35 – 36 36 – 37

We have refined our shirts to be more form fitting when tucked in or out, unlike traditional dress shirts that are too long, baggy and bulky.

Our tailored fit is considered a contemporary fit amongst other brands. Compared to our slim fit, our tailored Fit is 2 inches wider around the chest and 3 inches wider around the waist, making it a little roomier than our slim fit.

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